Bai Yuchuan1, 2, Zeng Qian1 and Jiang Changbo1
1Institute of Sediment on River and Coast Engineering Tianjin University,
Tianjin 300072,China
Tel: 022-27401747, E-mail: Ychbai@tju.edu.cn
2The State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research
East China Normal University, Shanghai 200062, China
Abstract: N-S equations
and TUMMAC method are used to simulate evolution of a wave train and to trace
free-surface movement. With the
model to described turbulence
effect for wave propagating and sediment transporting. The turbulence intensity
and sediment concentration have been resolved. Some results from these
simulations for the time-averaged vertical suspended sediment concentration
profiles are compared with that measured in a wave flame. This simulation makes
it possible to examine in detail the mechanism of sediment entrainment, vortex
formation and convection. This work contributes to knowledge about wave-sediment
interactions and to understanding of sediment transport mechanics.
Keywords: sediment,
wave, turbulence
model
The magnitude and direction of wave-induced sand transport over a bed is related strongly to the local hydrodynamic conditions and to the grain size of sediments comprising the bed. These factors in turn influence sediment grain size distribution in suspension for graded sediment beds and bed formation such as the bed ripple.
To date, many numerical studies have been carried out to clarify wave transformation on the plane bottom. Most of the numerical models were based on Boussinesq equation, which performed well in shallow water. Madsen et al[1] firstly presented a method for extending the validity of the Boussinesq equation to deeper water. And then the use of Boussineq equation was also extended as far as surf zone by Shaffer et al[2] , Karambas et al[3] , and Kabilling et al[4]. They have used some appropriate additional terms to express the momentum mixing, the researching results showed that the Bussiinesq equation can simulate wave transformation in the surf zone basically. However, the deformation process in the generation and disappearance of the vortex is caused by non-potential flow motion after the inrush of water mass, the viscous fluid forces should be considered in the numerical analysis. At present, Shibayama et al[6] , Huang et al[7] and Kishi et al[8] have used two-dimensional Navier-Stokers equations and some simple turbulence models to simulate the deformation of water wave.
In the present study, a numerical simulation
system based on the
model has been developed for
analyzing wave transformation on the plane bottom. The marker and cell method
(MAC) has been improved to calculate the deformation of free water surface, and
a detailed comparison between the experiment and numerical results is discussed.
(1)
(2)
(3)
where
and
components of current in a
Cartesian coordinate,
is the vertical coordinate,
is time,
is the density of water and
is the gravitational acceleration,
is the eddy viscosity, which being
decided by the
turbulence model.
To resolve the turbulence, the
model is used, which consists of a
transport equation for turbulent energy
and dissipation of the turbulent
kinetic energy
.
(4)
(5)
in which
is j-component of the mean velocity,
is the j-component of fluctuating
velocity,
is the kinematics viscosity,
is the Cartesian coordinates, and
is time. From
and
, the eddy viscosity is calculated.
(6)
Following the concept
of Boussineq’s eddy viscosity, the Reynolds stress term
is obtained as following:
(7)
The closure coefficient
are given as
=1,
,
,
,
,
.
This model is actually similar to the
conventional
model, but it improves the latter
in two respects: (1). the model is known to perform better in flows with strong
adverse pressure gradients. (witcox[9], 1993), which is exactly the
case for wave boundary. (2). It is possible to integrate through the viscous
sublayer without dubious damping-functions, thus avoiding the use of
wall-function( Putel and Youn[10],1995)
Further more, the boundary condition at the bed
for
and
are simple and make it possible to
account for both smooth and rough bed conditions. The boundary at the bed
adopted in the present work are (1) the no-slip condition for the velocities,
(2).
=0 condition of
and (3) the following relationship
for
(J. Fredsφe[11],1999).
(8)
Here, the parameter
is related to the grain-roughness
Reynolds number,
,
for
(9)
, for
(10)
in which
is Nikuradse’s equivalent
roughness height (grain roughness), and
is the local friction velocity.
(Patel and Yoon[11], 1995) have shown that this relation is valid for
a flat-wall for values of
of up to about 4000.
The
model has previously been used
with success to calculate the flow over dune in rivers ( Yoon and Patel, 1996)
and wave plus current over a ripple-covered bed((Jφrgen Fredsφ,et al ,1999).
Tracking the free surface and modeling wave crawling up the slope, the modified MAC method (TUMMAC) is used. The tracking points in free surface are decided by the following formula:
(11)
The
describes the new free surface, (
)is the velocity of a tracking point. With moving of the fluid, the
distribution of the marking points will become uneven, so the new marking points
should be redetermined for even distribution and the points
will not regarded as the marking points in next time. As shown in Fig.1, the
new marking points
、
and
will be
、
and
, the velocities of which are solved out by the nine-points interpolating
formula obtained by Taylor expansion.
(12)
In above formula, the
meaning of signs can be seen in Fig.2. The formula of solving
is similar.
When solving the grid pressure and the marking points moving velocity in free surface, if a velocity outside the grid is needed, a linear extrapolating formula is generally used. Ten situations can be divided for any known and unknown velocity points, seeing the Fig.3. Using ● to represent a known velocity point and ◆ to represent a unknown velocity point,as the fifth case, the unknown velocity can be obtained by formula (13).

Fig.1 Re-determination of marking points

Fig.2 Interpolating diagram of nine points
(13)
The extrapolating process is progressed along
the sketch of the free surface, as showing in Fig.4. Firstly the velocity of the
nearest layer from the free surface will be solved, then extrapolate again until
the pressure of the free surface and the velocity of marking point could be
satisfied. In Fig4. the numbers represent the cases with which is followed. The
method for solving
is in same way.

Fig.3 Relationship between known and unknown velocities

Fig.4 The process of
extrapolation for velocity
The concentration of suspended sediment is
calculated using the well-know convection-diffusion equation which states that
the temporal change in suspended sediment concentration,
, is due to the convective transport of suspended sediment and to diffusive
processes. Thus
(14)
whereby
and
are the horizontal and vertical
coordinate,
is the sediment settling velocity.
The exchange of the sediment per unit of time,
, can be estimated by considering the difference between the rate at which
sediments enter suspension, defined by a pick-up function
and the rate at which sediments
settle back to the bed are defined as
. Thus
(15)
in water surface, the sediment flax is equal zero, like following:
,
(16)
The sediment quantity
being picked up from the bed is equal to the sediment Pick-up rate
, which is an outer variable to be determined by the local hydraulic
conditions, especially turbulence of tidal and wave boundary layer at the
location concerned (e.g. O’Connor et al,1988; Nadaoka, K ,1991). This relation
can be written as follow:
,
(17)
The numerical model, the equations are solved by the finite difference. The forward time difference method is used to discretize the time derivative. The convection terms are discretized by the central difference method, and further more, in order to ensure numerical stability and decrease numerical dispersion, the donor-cell method has been used. To track free surface locations through the wave propagating and breaking, the TUMMAC method and the irregular stars method are used. The Marker and Cell Method (MAC) was originally developed by Harlow et al [19] and then some modifications have been made to improve the numerical accuracy and ability to deal the free surface, such as SMAC Method (Viecell[20]), SUMMAC(CHAN[21]), TUMMAC (Miyata[22]-[23]), the details of these improvements are given in these literatures.
The test case is employed to simulate the sediment concentration under second order Storkes wave action, the flow boundary conditions are given as following:

Fig.5 Vertical distribution of the sediment
concentration
where
is the wave height,
is the radian frequency,
is the wave number and d is the
water depth. At the bottom, the boundary conditions at the bed are summarized:
The initial condition for the mean flow is treated as still water with no wave or no current motion, so the initial velocities are given zero, and the initial pressure fields are given as stationary water pressure.
Fig. 5 shows the vertical distribution of the sediment concentration under the wave at different cross section, the solid line represents under wave crest and the dotted line represents under wave trough. Fig. 6 shows the typical velocity field. Fig.7 shows the distribution of calculated sediment concentration in the space certain time. From the Fig.7 the sediment concentration vary with wave progress. As the wave crest passing, the sediment concentration is high, and with the increasing distance above the bottom, the sediment concentration become small. in addition, there is a slow decay in the concentration under trough.

Fig.6
The typical velocity under wave action

Fig. 7
The typical sediment concentration contour under wave action
A mathematical model has been developed to describe the space and time variations in the concentration of suspended sediment under action of wave. The free surface is traced by using TUMMAC method, the model reveals the real phenomena of wave propagation, and it is easy to consider the wave nonlinearity. In this paper, it is the first step using the turbulence model to study the wave boundary layers with free surface, further studies will be conducted about the dynamic of wave transforming and sediment transport in the surfer zone.
Acknowledgements
This is research was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contracts no. 59809006 and No. 59890200, and also by the Science foundations of Tianjin Municipality under contract No.983702011 and The state key laboratory of E.stuarine & coastal Research under contract No.98001.we are also thankful for help of Prof. Zhao .Z .D.
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