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A Boussinesq-Type Model Incorporating Breaking Waves

Author(s): Michalis K. Chondros; Constantine D. Memos; Theophanis V. Karambas

Linked Author(s): Constantine Memos

Keywords: No Keywords

Abstract: In the present work a Boussinesq-type model was modified to account for breaking waves in shallow water. The model is based on a system of equations in terms of the surface elevation and the depth-averaged horizontal velocities, in two horizontal dimensions for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear irregular waves over any finite water depth, as derived by Karambas and Memos (2009). The formulation involves five terms in each momentum equation, including the classical shallow water equation terms, and only one frequency dispersion term. The present work extends the model capacity by including wave breaking, in one horizontal dimension, based on the criterion proposed by Kennedy et al. (1999). The modified model is applied to simulate the propagation and wave breaking of monochromatic waves using a simple explicit scheme of Finite Differences. The results of the simulation are compared with experimental data and with results of computational program MIKE21. The comparisons show very good agreement in most cases, equivalent to or better than that obtained by MIKE21.

DOI:

Year: 2009

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