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You are here : eLibrary : IAHR World Congress Proceedings : 36th Congress - The Hague (2015) ALL CONTENT : Water engineering : Experimental study of flow under 3-d breaking waves over a smooth beach
Experimental study of flow under 3-d breaking waves over a smooth beach
Author : K.A. GALANI(1) & A.A. DIMAS(2)
Wave tank measurements of three-dimensional wave breaking on a 1/15 sloping beach for incoming regular waves were
performed using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) and Acoustic Doppler Velocimetry (ADV). Two cases of incoming
regular waves were tested with a wave period of 1.5 s, which corresponds to a wavelength of 3.51 m at deep water, and
wave heights of H=0.08 m and H=0.10 m. The three-dimensionality of wave breaking was initiated by the diffraction of the
incoming waves on a part of the beach narrower than the wave tank. Free surface elevations were also measured at
several locations along the beach centerline. In the surf zone, the free surface elevation timeseries resembles the typical
"saw-tooth" profile. Instantaneous velocity vector fields show that velocity increases at the back face of the breaking wave,
while it is minimized just below the surface roller. Along the slope centerline, period-averaged mean velocity profiles show
the existence of a current with a shoreward direction, whose magnitude increases rapidly with the water depth, while at
planes parallel to the centerline, period-averaged velocity profile are characterized by the present of a current with
seaward direction whose magnitude decreases with water depth.
File Size : 1,579,449 bytes
File Type : Adobe Acrobat Document
Chapter : IAHR World Congress Proceedings
Category : 36th Congress - The Hague (2015) ALL CONTENT
Article : Water engineering
Date Published : 13/08/2015
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