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Experimental Study on the Mechanics of Regular Waves

Author(s): F. De Serio; M. Mossa

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Keywords: Waves; Shear stress; Regular waves; Turbulence

Abstract: The analysis of velocity and turbulent and wave Reynolds shear stress distributions in a regular wave field on a sloping bottom is the aim of the present study, because of their influence on many coastal processes, such as undertow currents, sediment transport and action on maritime structures. In literature some models of irrotational and non irrotational waves introduce a phase shift between horizontal and vertical velocity components, which is actually different from the value predicted by classical theories (Rivero and S. -Arcilla, 1995; Deigaard and Fredsoe, 1989). Consequently some papers evidence that the wave Reynolds shear stresses are not nil, providing some equations to predict them. As observed by You (1997) and Damiani et al. (1999), these different models do not always match regarding the trend and the sign of the wave Reynold shear stresses, and they definitively need a confirmation on the basis of laboratory tests. Therefore the experimental investigation of the present study is a contribution to the validation of the models present in literature. The technique used to examine the measured time series of the velocity components allowed us to study also the turbulent Reynolds shear stresses, whose effects are more evident close to the breaking region.

DOI:

Year: 2003

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