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Wave Spectra Observations in Surf-Zone

Author(s): Giancarlo Chiaia; Leonardo Damiani; Antonio Petrillo

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Abstract: The experim ental tests, carried out at the laboratory of the Hydraulics and Hydraulic Constructions Institute of Bari University, already described in previous papers, enabled investigating into some aspects relating to wave spectra transformations in the surf-zone above a sandy bottom. This paper in particular deals with the local bar effect on non-linearities, the spectrum saturation in the inner surf-zone (near the shoreline) and the nature of surf-beat.

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Year: 1991

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