Author(s): Ioannis Gerasimos Tsipas; Iason Chalmoukis; Athanassios Dimas
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Abstract: Wave-induced hydrodynamic and sediment-transport processes in nearshore regions are crucial in the design of coastal protection measures. Waves in the coastal zone interact with the seabed, resulting in wave breaking, wave-generated currents, wave boundary layer development and sediment transport in the form bed and suspended loads. These processes have the potential to cause bed morphological changes, such as small-scale bed formations, i.e. ripples, or large-scale ones, i.e. berms and seasonal beach profiles. Occasionally, large-scale bed morphological changes may cause beach erosion and/or threaten the stability of coastal infrastructures. These issues motivate the need for predictive models that explicitly couple hydrodynamics and sediment transport. In this work, such an in-house numerical model was developed and results are presented of flow and suspended sediment transport induced by breaking waves over a constant-slope beach.
Year: 2026