Author(s): Martin Sanchez; Christophe Chevalier

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Keywords: Waves; reflection; transmission; energy fluxes; measurements; submerged breakwater

Abstract: This paper describes an original method to separate two co-existing linear waves in a flume. It is based on the study at a fixed point of the water surface level η, and the slope of the water surface ∂η/∂χ. In this method a complex function containing ? in the real part, and a function obtained from ∂η/∂χ in the imaginary part, is used. This complex function is analysed by the discrete Fourier transform and allows the separation of the two co-existing waves. At the studied point, the amplitudes and phases of the components of the waves propagating towards the positive and negative χ-directions are respectively given by the corresponding amplitudes and phases of the Fourier-series coefficients of positive and negative index frequencies. This method is validated based on a series of tests carried out in a laboratory wave flume

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2006.9521665

Year: 2006