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Soliton Mode Approach to the Wave-Height Distribution of Shallow Water Swell

Author(s): T. Yasuda

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Keywords: No Keywords

Abstract: Soliton mode approach is suggested to determine theoretically the wave-height distribution of the shallow water swell having a pronounced nonlinearityand finite spectral band-width.It is shown that the distribution is very closeto the Rayleighan derived under the strict assunption of a narrow-banded Gaus-sian process.

DOI:

Year: 1989

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