Author(s): M. Bonneton; P. Gaillard
Linked Author(s):
Keywords: Numerical modelling; Wave refraction; Wave breaking; Wave set-up; Wave-induced currents
Abstract: A procedure for calculating wave-induced mean water level variation s and nearshore currents, for an arbitrary sea-bed topography, is described. It is based on the combined use of different numerical models for calculating wave propagation, i. e. refraction and diffraction, as w ell as nearshore currents. A comparison betw een results of such numerical models an d formerly pub lished experimental da ta for straight beaches with constant slope is presented. It appears from this that the most difficult part of the numerical modelling process concerns the representation of wave properties in the surf zone. An example of application of numerical modelling to a complex beach topography is also given.
Year: 1985