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Experimental study of wave-induced mass transport

Author(s): Maciej Paprota; Wojciech Sulisz; Anna Reda

Linked Author(s): Maciej Paprota, Wojciech Sulisz, Anna Reda

Keywords: Gravity waves; mass transport; Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV); Stokes drift; wave flume

Abstract: An original method is proposed to extract drift velocity induced by waves propagating in a wave flume. The particle image velocimetry technique is employed to measure velocity fields under regular gravity waves propagating at a constant depth. Based on the measurements, the Eulerian mean current velocity is determined. The instantaneous velocity fields are integrated to calculate particle trajectories and the Lagrangian time-averaged vertical distribution of mass-transport velocity. The Stokes drift velocity is determined by subtracting the Eulerian mean current from the Lagrangian mass-transport velocity. The results are in good agreement with theoretical second-order irrotational solution and confirm applicability of the weakly nonlinear solution for calculating transport processes associated with propagating ocean waves.


Year: 2016

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