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Interactions Between Tsunamis and Ocean Swell Waves: A First Look

Author(s): Hoda M. El Safty; James M. Kaihatu

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Abstract: It is hypothesized here that interaction with swell waves may have a non-negligible effect on the evolution of an onrushing tsunami. Our objective, therefore, is to investigate the effect of combined swell–tsunami interaction on the nature of the tsunami–in particular the surface elevation, the runup speed and the near-bottom velocities. Preliminary laboratory testing in the Tsunami Wave Basin at Oregon State University has been performed to simulate this interaction, with free surface elevations and velocities measured at various locations over a plane sloping beach (redolent of a scaled-down coastal shelf and beach). Video imagery will also be used to record the runup extent and other optical characteristics of the tsunami and its interaction with the swell waves. The data will be analyzed using special transforms, which account for the highly transient nature of the interaction and the steepening effect in the nearshore. Several different types of random wavetrains will be generated in order to determine the sensitivity of this interaction with regards to spectral bandwidth and spectral characteristics.

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Year: 2010

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