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Wave Breaking and Bottom Friction over Mildly Sloping Bed and Bar in a New Boussinesq Wave Model

Author(s): I. G. Koutsourelakis; C. D. Memos

Linked Author(s): Iason Georgios Koutsourelakis

Keywords: Waves; Boussinesq model; Wave breaking; Surface Roller

Abstract: In the present work a further advance of a previously presented Boussinesq model is introduced. This extension comprises of adding terms to the Boussinesq wave model's equations, in order to incorporate the important phaenomena of wave breaking and bottom friction, which play an important role in wave transformation mainly in shallower waters and the surf zone. Wave breaking is implemented using the surface roller criterion. The enhanced model is applied in simulations of 1DH regular and random waves propagating over mildly slopping beds and submerged bars. The results of the simulations are compared to experimental data and those of MIKE21 BW, one widely acknowledged commercial wave model.

DOI:

Year: 2011

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