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Long Wave Propagation and Bore Dynamics in Coastal and Estuarine Environments

Author(s): Philippe Bonneton

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Abstract: Storm-surge waves and tsunamis can cause tremendous damage to coastal and estuarine areas. As these long waves propagate on-shore, nonlinear interactions are enhanced by the water depth decrease and by estuary convergence. This nonlinear wave transformation can frequently lead to the formation of bores (undular or breaking). The understanding and the prediction of this phenomenon represent an important issue for coastal and estuarine disaster management. However, the complex competition between energy dissipation, nonlinear and dispersive effects, which govern bore dynamics, makes the modelling of its evolution a challenging task. During this talk, we will present recent advances on fully nonlinear weakly dispersive long wave modelling, and we will show the efficiency of these approaches for predicting tsunami-bore and tidal bore propagating up estuaries.

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Year: 2014

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